Itinerary | 4 Days In... Seoul
So you’re coming to Seoul. What to do? I asked myself this question a month ago, when a good friend visited me in Korea. It was her first time here, and, having only moved to Seoul last summer myself, it was the perfect opportunity for the both of us to explore the city with the curious, bright-eyed minds of tourists.
Below is an itinerary based off the things we did and places we visited for your own trip to Seoul, though, of course, feel free to jigsaw things around depending on your interests and time constraints!
Day 1:
Like most big cities, two of the top things to do when visiting Seoul are shopping and eating, so get ready to empty out your wallet and fill up your belly. Kick off your trip by exploring Dongdaemun, which was the site of the Eastern gate into the city back in olden times (hence the name, which translates to “Eastern big door”). Nowadays, it’s the shopping hub of Seoul, with wholesale outlets and boutique stores in 24-hour shopping malls. It’s also where you can find the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, or DDP: a large, futuristic bean of a structure designed by Zaha Hadid. They stage a variety of art exhibits, fashion shows, and other cultural events. You can check out what’s on show on their website.
The dynamism of the ever-shifting Dongdaemun area inspired the late Zaha Hadid to design the three-dimensional amorphous structure of the DDP. (Image from the DDP official website.)
If you’ve worked up an appetite, hop on a 10-minute cab ride to Gwangjang Market, a bustling place established in 1905 — making it the oldest surviving market in South Korea — that sells all sorts of classic local foods, from tteokbokki (stir-fried spicy rice cakes) to sannakji (live baby octopus tentacles, squirming and all). My personal favourite is bindaetteok, savoury mung bean pancakes fried fresh and crispy, from Sunhui’s Bindaetteok. It’s hard to miss — you’ll find a huge line snaking down the already packed street. If you’re interested, around the area are also a bunch of hanbok stores that sell beautiful traditional Korean wear, either off-the-rack or custom-designed.
Rows and rows of gyeran-ppang, or egg bread at Myeongdong: baked eggs nestled in pillowy slices of brioche bread.
Don’t fill yourself up too much at the market, since the next stop is Myeongdong, a tourist hotspot for shopping and more street eats. Here, you’ll find a lot of the big brands, from clothing to makeup stores (necessary for that 10-step Korean skincare routine!). Tip: Come after 4:30pm, which is when more street food vendors set up their stalls along the main road. You’ll find eats like egg bread (a baked egg nestled in pillowy, subtly sweet brioche bread) and crazy 32 cm-tall soft serve cones. Daniel Food Diary has a great list of the best Korean street food to try at Myeongdong. Or, if you’d rather eat at a proper meal at a sit-down restaurant, check out Yoogane Chicken Galbi, where you get spicy marinated chicken, your pick of veggies, rice and even cheese, all stir-fried on a sizzling pan on your table.
Finally, admire the beautiful Seoul skyline from the N Seoul Tower (a.k.a. Namsan Tower or Seoul Tower), perched atop — you guessed it — Namsan Mountain. The best way to get up to the tower is by cable car: Ask your cab driver to drop you off at the N Seoul Tower cable car station. If you’re up for a hike, you can walk up the mountain as well, though do so at your own peril. Once you’ve soaked in the sights, and feel like the night’s still young, check out the nearby Itaewon, which is an area popular for nightlife and global cuisines. One of my newfound favourite places for modern Korean small plates and makgeolli (fermented Korean rice wine) is Mr. Ahn’s Craft Makgeolli, tucked away in a street away from Itaewon proper. (Let’s just hope the friend who introduced me to this place doesn’t get mad that I’m giving away his coveted spot.)
Day 2:
Today’s going to be a day steeped in history and tradition in the Jongno District, which has been the city center for 600 years since the Joseon Dynasty established its capital city in Seoul. Treat yourself with some royal cuisine at Jiwhaja, where they dish up course after course of food traditionally served to emperors. (If you’ve ever watched the hit Korean drama Daejanggeum, you’ll be familiar with this kind of food. If you haven’t, did you live under a rock?) Each dish is beautifully prepared, and the waiter will explain the rich history behind them. Definitely worth the experience! Note: The meal will last around 1.5-2 hours, so allot your time appropriately, and also be sure to make a reservation beforehand so they can prepare the ingredients.
Next, burn off some of that fuel by taking a tour of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, which is a 20-minute walk/8-minute drive from Jiwhaja. This was the main royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty, and is one of the grandest and most representative palaces of Korean history. I’d highly recommend joining a free English-speaking guided tour, which takes place at 11am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm everyday. You’ll hit the important sites within the palace, and learn about the history of the palace and the exquisite details of Korean architecture. Another option is the Changdeokgung Palace, which boasts a beautiful secret garden with landscaped lawns and ornate pavilions. You may have to reserve a spot in an English-speaking tour to access the garden though, so make sure to call in advance.
Bukchon Hanok Village is home to hundreds of traditional Korean houses.
Another area to check out is Insadong, an artsy neighbourhood known for its plethora of galleries and little shops. It’s a fun place to grab some traditional Korean souvenirs, especially during the weekly Saturday market. While you’re there, be sure to check out Ssamzigil, a small outdoor mall of four floors that gradually spiral upwards (think NYC’s Guggenheim but for shops). For the brave out there, try some poop bread… Don’t worry, no human/animal waste was involved in the making of this snack. It’s a cartoonishly shaped bread stuffed with sweet red bean paste, though they also have a chocolate version if you want yours to seem a little more authentic.
Continue your cultural tour at the nearby Bukchon Hanok Village, where you’ll find 600-year-old traditional Korean houses (and a lot of tourists). Or, if you’re short on time, I’d suggest skipping Bukchon entirely and heading straight to Ikseondong, a small area that’s also comprised of traditional Korean hanok houses. Unlike in Bukchon, which is actually still a residential area, the hanoks in Ikseondong house cute shops, cafes, and restaurants, making it a great place to grab tea or dinner. I only went here recently myself, and loved the area immediately — the perfect place where new meets old.
Day 3:
The Dora Observatory near the DMZ reads, “End of separation, beginning of unification.”
So you’ve come to Seoul to see South Korea, but why not see bit of the fabled North Korea while you’re here? Book a tour to the DMZ, the stretch of land running across the Korean Peninsula that was established at the end of the Korean War. I opted for this half-day tour, which took us to see the Dora Observatory, from where I spied a North Korean soldier on duty, and the Third Tunnel, one of four tunnels discovered to have been dug by North Koreans in preparation for a surprise attack on Seoul (!). There are lengthier options available should you wish, which you can check out on Viator. Just remember that the DMZ can only be entered with a guide, so make sure you book a tour if you want to visit.
Once you’ve made it back into the city (hopefully…hah), time for dinner. A visit to Korea isn’t complete without some good ol’ KBBQ, so book a table at my family’s go-to place, Two Plus Barbecue (they have multiple locations). Here, you’ll find beautifully marbled, top-grade beef at a reasonable price; hence the name, which refers to the topmost tier in the Korean beef grading system. Also be sure to order their kimchi beef fried rice, which is basically Korean paella/crack on a sizzling stone pan.
Day 4:
Since you spent Days 1 + 2 in the north side of the city, or Gangbuk (literally “north of river”), spend your last day exploring the south side, or Gangnam, of “oppa Gangnam style” fame. While you’ll find more historical stuff in Gangbuk, Gangnam is for the most part about shopping (or plastic surgery, if that tickles your fancy). Start off in Garosugil, a popular, upscale shopping street with a bounty of boutique stores and charming restaurants and cafes. Grab lunch at Gati, an Italian restaurant serving dishes with a Korean twist — think squid ink pasta topped with plump seared scallops and cod roe, and abalone risotto. A store worth popping by is Artbox, where they sell cute stationery and knickknacks.
Squid ink, fish roe and spam mari from School Food, a franchise serving Korean bunsik, or fast food.
Afterwards, stroll along the Han River, which you can get to by walking straight past the Hyundai High School on the northern end of Garosugil. Suggestion: If the weather’s warm, you can get takeout from School Food and have a picnic of mari (Korean rice rolls — get the mozzarella spam one) and carbonara tteokbooki at the riverside park! You can also rent bicycles and bike along the river — check out this post from Hedgers Abroad for bike rental locations.
Next, hop on a cab to the COEX Mall, a massive underground shopping complex that also houses a beautiful, massive library and an aquarium. Or, if you want a little bit of adrenaline, head further east to Lotte World, which is a part-indoor, part-outdoor theme park. They also have the Lotte Mall (which also happens to have an aquarium, if that’s your thing) and the Lotte World Tower, Korea’s tallest building and the world’s sixth.
Finally, end your trip to Seoul with a bang with drinks in the Apgujeong Rodeo Street, which used to be the trendiest area in Gangnam. Though it’s since given up its mantle to places like Itaewon and Hongdae, it still has good, low-key places to grab drinks, like White Bear Makgeolli Bar & Brewery, where you can enjoy some makgeolli, craft beer and Korean bites. And for those brave, rowdy souls, there’s no shortage of clubs in Gangnam, like Octagon, Answer, and Cake Shop. (I’m not exactly an expert in this field, but here are the 15 best clubs to get lit at by 10 Magazine.) Hey, it’ll help with the jet lag on your trip back home, right?
So there you have it — your 4-day guide to Seoul. Feel free to drop any questions you might have in the comments below, or shoot me a message via my Contact page! I’d be more than happy to give any further recs.
