Seeing Double: The Curious History of Lobster Rolls
I didn’t have my first lobster roll until I was 18. It was at a food fair — one of those that pop up in New York every few months, with vendors selling a range of food like Korean tacos and tiny doughnuts. An eager acolyte of experiencing “the food of America” (I had just moved to the States for college) and a lifelong lover of shellfish, I naturally found myself in line for Red Hook Lobster Pound, a husband-and-wife-owned joint specializing in all things lobster.
10 minutes and $20 later, my lobster roll arrived. Less partial to cold seafood, I’d opted for the Connecticut-style roll: chunks of knuckle and claw meat poached in hot butter, served in an equally buttery hot dog bun. When I bit into the pillowy concoction, I couldn’t tell where the seafood ended and the bread began — the lobster was just that tender.
I would soon discover that not all lobster rolls are created equal (Red Hook doesn’t use tail meat, for instance, because it’s too tough; some are just plain fishy). These differences might stem from the fact that there are actually two distinct versions of lobster rolls: Maine style and Connecticut style. The Maine iteration is also called a lobster salad roll, and consists of cold lobster meat tossed in lemon juice and a light spread of mayonnaise. Some lettuce and celery might also be thrown in. While most people are likely more familiar with the cold version, its Connecticut cousin, simply warm and buttered, is allegedly the original.
Historical records maintain that the first documented lobster roll was served in 1929 at Perry’s, a restaurant in Milford, Connecticut. But the practice of making seafood sandwiches may have originated earlier than that, when fishermen would stuff leftover lobster or meat from broken claws into bread and call it a meal. Interestingly enough, lobster was historically seen as a poor man’s protein — these critters were so plentiful, in fact, that they were even used as fertilizer.
Regardless of whether you prefer your shellfish cold and creamy or hot and buttery, however, it is the griddled split-top bun that ties everything together. Dubbed the New England-style hot dog bun, these are different from the side-loading buns that are common in the rest of America. In the 1940s, the restaurant chain Howard Johnson’s approached a bakery in Maine, asking for their help in creating a bun for its fried clam strip sandwiches. These rolls are baked very close together, keeping their sides flat and soft, which makes them perfect for buttering, toasting and grilling.
While the lobster roll originated in the New England area, it has become deeply tied to the culinary identity of other states, like Maine and New York. It has also become something distinctly, iconically American (even the word “hamburger” has German roots, not American), especially during summer months. Where to get them? My favourite to date remains Red Hook Lobster Pound’s Connecticut-style lobster roll. The ubiquitous Luke’s Lobster serves a pretty decent Maine version — make sure to swipe a bowl of clam chowder to complete the meal. If you’re in Boston, Pauli’s is delicious, and they have both versions to boot.
Nowadays, you may also come across somewhat more outrageous remixes, from lobster stuffed in hamburger buns and pita pockets, to wasabi, curry and chipotle seasonings… though purists will roll in their graves. As for me, I’ll stick to the classics, hot or cold — just the way they’re meant to be.
